Classic Italian Seafood Pasta

Place the Manila clams in a wide bowl of cold salted water (35g salt per 1L water) for 20 minutes to expel any grit. Scrub the mussels under cold running water and pull the fibrous beard toward the hinge to remove. Slice cleaned calamari bodies into 1/2-inch rings and separate tentacles. Peel and devein the wild shrimp, leaving the tail segments intact for visual presentation.

Bring 4 liters of fresh water to a rolling boil in a stockpot. Season with 2 tablespoons of coarse sea salt (the water should taste like clean ocean brine). Drop the bronze-cut spaghetti or linguine. Stir continuously for the first 60 seconds to prevent sticking. Set timer for 8 minutes—we want the strands very firm (al chiodo), as they will finish cooking in the seafood juices.

Heat 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil in a wide, deep skillet over medium-high heat. Add half the sliced garlic and a pinch of crushed chili flakes. Sizzle for 30 seconds until aromatic. Add the cleaned clams and mussels, then splash in 120ml dry white wine. Cover immediately with a tight lid. Steam for 3 to 4 minutes until the shells pop open. Transfer open shellfish to a bowl; discard any that stay shut. Strain the precious briny liquor through a fine sieve to catch any residual sand and reserve.

Wipe out the skillet quickly, return to high heat, and add 1 tablespoon of olive oil. Add the prepared shrimp and calamari rings along with the remaining garlic. Flash-sear for 90 to 120 seconds maximum. Calamari only requires gentle heat; cooking it a second too long turns it tough and rubbery. As soon as the shrimp curl and become opaque pink, transfer them into the bowl with the shellfish.

Pour the strained shellfish nectar back into the hot skillet. Add the halved cherry tomatoes and simmer for 2 minutes until their skins slightly blister and burst. Transfer the undercooked pasta directly from the boiling pot into this bubbling skillet. Add 1/2 cup of starchy pasta water. Toss and shake the skillet vigorously over medium-high heat for 2 minutes. The starch and olive oil will form a glossy, creamy golden veil around each strand.

Remove the pan from direct heat. Dump all the warm steamed clams, mussels, shrimp, calamari, and any accumulated juices back into the skillet. Scatter generously with finely chopped flat-leaf Italian parsley and drizzle with 1 tablespoon of raw, fragrant extra-virgin olive oil. Give the pan a final vigorous toss with tongs to marry all flavors. Twirl onto warm shallow pasta bowls and serve with fresh lemon wedges.